Take one of the leading edge
pieces and align it with a leading edge as shown. The layering of
paper should be out of sight on the underside. The heavy end
should be towards the nose of the sail—at left in the
photo. The other end should line up with the wingtip as shown.
(Heavy end? Just place the middle of the piece over your
forefinger!)
Tack in place with squares of
sticky tape—one in the middle and one near each end.
All good? If not, pull off and
try again. Now lay a strip of tape down the whole length, as
indicated in the photo.
Trim off any overhanging tape
using scissors.
Tape Other Edge
Edge tacked at one end
Flip the sail over so the
layering of the leading edge piece faces up.
Go to the wingtip and fold over
the free edge of the piece so it lines up with the guide line
on the sail.
Tack the edge down with a short
strip of tape as indicated in the photo. See how the guide line is
just visible, through the tape.
Edge taped all along
Using somewhat longer lengths of
tape, tack down more and more of the leading edge piece, making sure
the piece edge lines up with the guide line. Go all the way to the
other end as shown in the photo.
Shape the Leading Edge
Pinching started at one end
Go to the wingtip end of the
leading edge and carefully pinch it between finger and thumb,
as in the photo. Just like the vertical spar, the aim is to get a
crease right in the middle.
V shape formed, all the way along
Work your way along the spar piece, pinching
tightly all the way. I like to use both hands at once, close
together.
Go all the way along and then back again, so
nothing is missed. See the photo.
Both leading edge pieces in place and shaped
Now tape the other
leading edge piece in place. Be careful to orient and line up this
piece just like the first one.
Shape the piece by pinching, as
you did for the first one. There they both are, in the photo.
Snip off any overhanging tape
and/or paper at the wingtips using scissors.
Snip straight across
in line with the trailing edge of the sail. The leading edge spars
are now complete.
Attaching
Spreader to Sail
Bear in mind that most of the steps
below are more easily done on a tabletop, with the vertical spar up
against one edge of the tabletop. That's to keep the bit you are
working on flat!
Trim End
Where to snip off the end of each spreader piece
Take one of the remaining spar pieces and
align it with the sail centerline and a guide line as in the photo.
Tape in place. Any overhanging tape can be
folded around or snipped off with scissors.
Tape
One Edge
One edge taped
Align the spreader piece with
the guide line as shown. One corner of the wider end should be
touching the centerline of the kite sail, also as shown in the
photo.
Tack in place with squares of
sticky tape—one near each end.
All good? Now lay a strip of
tape down the whole length, as indicated in the photo.
Note: The end of the spreader
doesn't have to fit precisely against the leading edge. A
small gap or angle is quite OK.
Tape
Other Edge
Edge tacked at one end
Go to the small end of the
spreader piece and line up the long edge with the guide line.
Tack the edge down with a short
strip of tape, as indicated in the photo.
Like to see a video clip? Just scroll down to near the end of this page.
Edge taped all along
Using another strip or two of
tape, tack down the rest of the spreader piece, making sure the edge
lines up with the guide line.
Shape the Spreader
Pinching started at one end
Go to the large end of the
spreader and carefully pinch it between finger and thumb,
forming a crease right in the middle. See the photo.
V shape formed, most of the way along
Work your way along, pinching
tightly as far as you can. Don't worry if you can't get a sharp
crease right at the small end. See the photo.
Both spreader pieces taped in place and shaped
Now tape the other
spreader piece in place. Again, the wider end of the piece lines up
with the centerline of the sail.
Shape the piece by pinching, as
you did for the first one. There they both are, in the photo.
Connect Spreader Pieces
Spreader connected with three pieces of tape
By folding the sail along the
centerline, butt the two spreader pieces together in the middle. Hold
them there with a square of sticky tape right over the top.
All lined up perfectly? If not,
rip off the tape and try again.
Stick a 7 cm (3 in.) length of
sticky tape over the top and down onto the sail above and
below the spreader. See the photo.
Stick a 5 cm (2 in.) piece of
sticky tape across the upper face and another one across the
lower face, to hold the spreader together. The rectangles
look narrower due to the angle of the paper.
Attaching
Tail Weight
Rectangle marked out on paper
Mark dots on a sheet of paper as
shown, and draw lines to complete a rectangle.
The tail weight - a rectangle, rolled up tight and taped
Cut the rectangle out using
scissors.
Starting from a long
edge, roll up the paper tightly.
Secure the 25 cm (10 in.) roll
with five strips of sticky tape, wrapped around and evenly spaced. See
the photo.
Tail weight inserted and taped to trailing edge of sail
Insert the tail weight 3 cm (1 in.)
into the tail end of the vertical spar.
Lay a 6 cm (2 1/2 in.) strip of
tape over the sail and tube.
Secure with a turn or two of tape
wrapped around the tube. Both tapes are indicated in the photo.
Attaching
Bridle Lines
Make Holes
Where the bridle holes go
Flip
the kite over so the vertical spar is facing up.
Measure
and make marks at the positions shown in the photo.
Using
the corner of a scissor tip, penetrate the tape and paper where the
pale circles are in the photo. Twirl a pencil tip in the holes to
widen them a little.
Attach Upper Line
Upper line secured with tape
Measure
and snip off a 36 cm (14 in.) length of polyester thread.
Flip
the kite over and put the thread through the two holes nearest the
nose of the kite. Make the length of thread equal from each hole.
Hold
the thread in place with a short strip of tape, as indicated in the
photo.
Attach
Lower Line
Lower line secured with tape
Measure
and snip off a 60 cm (24 in.) length of polyester thread.
As
before, put the thread through the two holes and make the length equal
from each hole.
Hold
the thread in place with a short strip of tape, as indicated in
the photo.
Adjust
Bridle Lines
Bridle lines adjusted
Bring
all four pieces of thread together between finger and thumb.
Suspend
the threads so they all come straight, with the kite still sitting
on the floor, with as little thread as possible coming out the top
of your hand.
Adjust
so the upper
bridle lines are leaning back, just a little, towards the tail end
of the kite, when viewed from the side. See the photo.
Check
that all lines have pulled straight before tying a Multi-Strand
Double knot close to where you gripped them all. With the lines
pulled tight, the knot should be level with a point no
further back
than the front edge of the spreader.
Trim
the free ends to the same length, with scissors—just for neatness!
The Tail
One Sheet To Start
Dots for 12 x 1 cm (3/8 in.) strips and 2 x 3 cm (1 1/8 in.) strips
Mark 14 dots on a sheet of paper
as shown at top left. From the top, all spaces are 1 cm (3/8 in.),
except for the last two which are 3 cm (1 1/8 in.).
Note: To avoid lots of
measuring, just use this sheet as a template for the sheets
that follow! Line up the sheets and just copy or trace the dots each
time.
Add More Sheets
Another sheet similarly marked with dots, then taped on
Take another sheet of paper and
mark with dots, exactly like the first one.
Bring the two sheets of paper
together, short edge to short edge.
Lay tape all the way across the
join and trim flush with the paper's edge with scissors.
Flip the paper and lay tape
across the join again, trimming as before.
Flip the paper again so the dots
are on top. You can just see them, under the tape in the photo.
More sheets dotted and taped - seven sheets here
Repeat the process, marking dots
and taping both sides of the join, until you have seven sheets of
paper joined.
On the last sheet, add
dots across both short edges.
Note: A kite made from A4
paper will have slightly longer tails than a kite made from
Letter-sized paper. However, the difference in flying characteristics
between the two kites out in the field would be hard to spot!
Cut Into Tails
Lines ruled through all the dots
With ruler and pen, connect all
the dots along the paper from end to end.
Rule a line across the
paper, 5 cm (2 in.) from one short edge, stopping at the second
last dot. See this near the left side of the photo.
Two 2-streamer tails, two 4-streamer tails and one long wide tail
With scissors, make cuts along five
lines to create two 2 cm (3/4 in.) ribbons, two 4 cm (1 1/2 in.) ribbons
and two 3 cm (1 1/8 in.) ribbons of paper.
Cut along the remaining long
lines, right up to the line that goes across the paper. See
these at the left of the photo.
Tape the two wide ribbons
together end-to-end, making it twice as long as all the others. Tape
on both sides of the join.
Attaching to
Sail
Tails taped to top side of sail
Lay the sail down with the
vertical spar against the tabletop or floor.
Align the four multi-streamer tails
with the trailing edge of the sail, referring to the photo. Tack each
tail in place with just a square of tape.
When happy with the placement,
use strips of sticky tape as indicated, folding around any
overhanging bits.
Tails taped on under side of sail
Flip the kite over and apply
more sticky tape as indicated in the photo.
Fold around any overhanging
corners of tape.
Long wide tail taped to tail weight
Align the ruled line on the wide
tail with the end of the tail weight.
Wrap two turns of tape around so
half is sticking to the tail weight and half is sticking to the tail
paper—as indicated right in the middle of the photo.
Also wrap tape around near the
end of the tail weight—as indicated just to the right of middle, in
the photo.
That's it. You're done!
Flying!
Nothing to it—attach line, catch breeze
After taking the kite to a flying
field, your flying line can be tied behind the Multi-Strand Double
knot of the bridle, wrapped around all the lines. That's it,
you're ready to fly.
Avoid flying in very windy
weather. The thread should be good to about 30 kph but there are no
guarantees beyond that.
Trimming
If the kite has been made perfectly,
it should not show an obvious preference for flying to the left or
right. What if the delta does tend to go in one direction much
more than the other? Try adding a short length of paper or scrap of
plastic to the wingtip that is on the outside of the turn. If
the problem gets worse, you have the tail-let on the wrong tip, so
just swap it over to the other side!
If the kite seems very reluctant to
launch despite plenty of breeze, you might need to retie the bridle—shifting the knot a centimeter or two (1/2 to 1 in.) toward
the nose end.
I hope you enjoyed learning how to make
the MBK Paper Delta design!
As mentioned earlier, there's more kite making on this site than you can poke a stick at. :-)
Want to know the most convenient way of using it all?
The Big MBK E-book Bundle is a collection of downloads—printable PDF files which provide step-by-step instructions for many kites large and small.